Jeanne Margaine-Lacroix: revolutionary designer who changed the line of fashion.

French couturier Jeanne Margaine-Lacroix 1867 – 1930, formed the subject of an MA dissertation undertaken in 2009 -2010. This book draws on that and subsequent research and explores Margaine-Lacroix’s  pivotal role in changing the silhouette of fashion in the early twentieth century. She was instrumental in changing attitudes to the uncorseted body with her innovative designs that merged the principles of reform dress with high fashion. Her clinging, slit-skirted robe Tanagreenne caused a sensation when first shown in 1908 and in today’s parlance the style rapidly ‘went viral’.

Margaine-Lacroix’s  highly significant influence on the course of  twentieth century fashion remains un acknowledged  – this book aims to redress that  omission.




A page on Margaine-Lacroix is coming soon. Meanwhile read my guest post on the Kensington and Chelsea libraries’ blog, written to  accompany the exhibition:  Margaine-Lacroix and the Dresses that Shocked Paris, July 2013.

Also available online: Inspired by the Antique: Margaine-Lacroix and the robe tanagréenne. A paper given at Costume Colloquium III: Past Dress: Future Fashion. Florence 2012.  Select Susie Ralph from the list of online presentations. The recording starts with an introduction in Italian.

Beneath the Bright Façade: a novel of Belle Époque Paris (working title) under the pen-name Édita Elphick.

Set against a background of the French couture industry, it tells the story of Lily.